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Our Tyres


We Stock - Radials and Crossply Tyres


Radial versus Cross-Plys?

This is an interesting question and one we are asked about a lot particularly in relation to 1930-40 & 50’s vehicles. Cross-ply tyres were first commonly introduced in the early “teens” and were the standard right up until the 1960’s when radial tyres were slowly introduced to the market, by the mid 1970’s all cars were set up for radial tyre use.

Most pre 1970’s vehicles were designed to perform on cross-ply tyres, however the introduction of radials saw a sudden shift in thinking that radials created a “better performing vehicle” and whilst that was true to a certain extent, it only created a better performance on vehicles that were already somewhat worn out.

Today, with the quality of restorations and the fastidious nature of restorers, most pre 1970’s cars are restored back to “As New” or in some cases even better. That, coupled with the better construction techniques cross ply tyre construction in modern manufacturing, means that a correctly set up 1930’s car will perform equally as well on modern cross-ply tyres as it will on the radial equivalents. I don’t say that as “Salesman’s talk”  - we had a good set of Firestone 600 – 16’s on our very reliable 1937 Chevrolet Tourer and I changed them out for 600R-16 radials and from personal experience it did not change the ride, cornering or handling one little bit, but as I say it is set up to factory standards and has had all the steering and ride components brought back to as new factory condition. So, if your car was made for cross-ply please don’t be afraid to use modern cross-ply’s on it. In the event we need to replace the tyres on the ’37 Tourer I will be going back to original specification cross ply’s.


On the other hand, if your car was made for Radials then that is what you should replace them with when the time comes.

New High Pressure Tyres - in Australian Tread Patterns

In the 1980's and again in the 1990's the Australian moulds for high pressure tyres were purchase by both Stan Lucas (Lucas Classic Tyre) and Harold Coker (Coker Tires).

Since establishing Old World Tyres over 15 years ago, we have been working to have as many of the original tread patterns re-established and thankfully Lucas has been listening. Unfortunately the word Olympic is not available as this trade mark is still owned by Dunlop who purchased Olympic in the 1980, now owned by Goodyear.


However this has not stopped the use of the moulds and treads and today we are proud to have over 15 Australian treads in use, all stocked by us for supply to the Australian & New Zealand market.

We have a number of different widths and styles available in various tyres. Please email us with you requirements.

Brass Stem Tubes

We have always stocked a limited supply of brass stem tubes mainly in 28 x 3" and 30 x 3 1/2". With many requests recently and knowledge that no one else is really carrying this line we have extended our range to include:

  • 30 x3"

  • 710 x 90

  • 23"- 25" Small combo

  • 23" - 25" Large Combo

  • 880 x 120

  • 26" x 500/600

  • Michelin extra heavy duty 810 x 105 - 880 x 135 combo

    Brass Stem tubes are more expensive than rubber however these are better suited to the high pressure and Beaded Edge tyres.

Rustbands - Tube Protection From Your Wheel

Rustbands (or Flaps as they are known in the USA) are a rubber protective liner that sits between the tube and the rim to protect the rim pinching the tubes as it moves against the tyre in general road use.

I get asked a lot about fitting rustbands and my advice is simple “inflate the tube until it has shape but does not want to fight you squeezing it (approximately 3 psi) – inset the tube inside the tyre making sure the valve is in the correct position, be it in the centre or off set. Slide the rustband over the tube and guide it up the inside wall of the tyre creating U shape over the tube, note: make sure it is even on both sides. Once this has been completed, insert the valve in the valve opening in the rim and slowly lever the tyre into place or, in the case of split rims, expand the rim until it is seated in the correct position”.

Rustbands are used from very early veteran vehicles including those with Beaded Edge or Clincher rims right through to the late 30’s when welded rims were introduced to replace riveted rims by many manufacturers.

Rim strips are basically oversized rubber bands designed to cover the “nipples of spokes” on the inside of wire wheels, generally available in 17-18” and 19-21” (some other sizes can be obtained). As a general rule, rim strips do not give the protection that rustbands do as they only cover the nipples and do not prevent the potential of pinching between the rim and the tyre.